Thank you for this interesting and funny essay. Love the Urban Chicken's... :-))). I never fell in love with Paris, nor did I become a frankophile, which is kind of strange really, as I used to speak French really well. I still love the language, but I got stuck in Central Europe voilà. Heading to Prague now for a family wedding. I shall see whether the signs in English are any better over there!
Ohh, I went to Paris with my daughter three weeks ago and now your photo essay make me want to return ASAP!
We stayed in the 11th arr. and took the metro from a different station almost every day. And at least one of the streets to the metro had a mosque and from all the shops you could see hijabs, long clothing etc. Sounds really daft but I can't explain it in a better way. Felt kind of nice anyhow.
I'm glad you and your daughter had a good time there, Carina! It's a wonderfully cosmopolitan place. Really different from any city in Norden, I would say. Don't you think?
Rome has a lot of public water fountains and spigots.
Interesting that France would put up with all the creeping anglicization. Quebec certainly doesn't. KFC is KFC in Paris and PFK--Poulet Frit (a la) Kentucky--in Montreal.
Then again, we in the USA think that using French words makes things more classy. "Pardon me, would you have any Grey Poupon?"
My wife and I have been living in the 6eme , at the edge of the 14eme, for the last two months and have noticed all of the same things except for the racial segregation. Our street (Blvd. Raspail) is one of the places taxi drivers congregate for their strike actions - I was narrowly missed by an egg thrown at a scab one day. Not sure about the segregation - we have walked in all 20 arrondisements while we have been here, but only two suburbs (Saint-Denis and Meudon) and have not had that feeling. For what it's worth, we live in an integrated multi-ethnic (anglo/black/Hispanic/Asian) neighborhood back home in the US, which feels rare there. The thing about similar businesses congregating is so true- we've seen it for shoe stores, for Japanese restaurants, and so on.
I'm glad you've made many of the same observations. If you want to check out the segregation thing, take metro line 4 to Château Rouge and go for a walk. Maybe this part of town is indeed special.
I'm glad you didn't get hit by the egg. The civil unrest aspect of Paris is definitely not one of the more pleasant ones, is it?
I may do that. We live right at the Vavin stop on the #4 Metro line. Only 17 stops away! And since I didn't say so before, thanks for a fascinating and thoughtful article.
One more comment, regarding water fountains: my wife and I were pleasantly astonished one day, filling a water bottle from a public fountain, to discover it dispensed (only) carbonated water! Later research taught us that Paris has 17 such public fountains, as well as over a hundred Wallace fountains, named after the wealthy British expat who paid for the first 70 after the Paris Commune, which he lived through, For art fans, the same Wallace who donated the Wallace Collection in London.
Oh yes, I actually forgot to mention the carbonated fountains! Thank you for filling that in. I didn't know the history of the Wallace fountains. Thanks for educating us!
I was just in Paris in the 4th arrondissement. Those references to the Shoah and the innocent lives lost were abundant, especially in this predominately orthodox Jewish neighborhood. It is a necessary reminder of knowing history and eternal vigilance. On a lighter note, really enjoyed the street art that I’m so drawn to and love to interact with these really evocative pieces. I didn’t notice the street garbage you experienced.
Ah, the joy of being in a European city on the night their team plays--you always do know when a goal gets scored...
Also, fun fact about some of those paste-ups that I learned last time I was in Paris: some of them are part of an app game, you walk around the city and collect them. My tour guide paused and took pictures of them once or twice as we were walking, for her kids who love to play. :) It was pretty sweet, and it's a great way to get people to engage in a new way with the city around them.
Really enjoyed this tour of La Paris Quotidienne — the photos and your commentary. So much to love about the city. Thanks for including a photo of one of my favorite parks - the Place des Vosges. Once, my husband, 14 yo son, and I were sitting at a table under the arcade and a woman was singing opera nearby while her friend recorded her on his phone. That same trip, we discovered the best place to ride out a 95-degree heat wave is the crypt under Soufflot’s Pantheon.
I'm glad you enjoyed it, Julie! Some say that the Place des Vosges is the oldest park in Paris, but I don't know if that's really true. It certainly is spectacular, with the combination of trees, grass, and arcades.
I will keep the Pantheon crypt in mind next time I'm in Paris during a heat wave. I just hope not to stay there permanently!
It is! It was the first planned square in the city, built by Henry IV from 1605 to 1612. The facades were all built to create the square and developers filled in buildings behind them.
Great review Gregory. I just love Paris. I was there in September again It's a city I feel comfortable navigating on my own now. And some of your observations ring so true: the parks are numerous and lovely, book reading in public is common. I have noticed memorial plaques on walls but I wonder do children notice them much. I did notice the rubbish and dirt on streets, and homeless people sleeping rough. Did you encounter the riots that took place after the match? It's so upsetting to see this level of destruction, a more common occurrence unfortunately.
You're right, Lucy, there is a lot of senseless violence in Paris, especially when something exciting happens—either positive or negative! I find the habit of burning parked cars, for example, extremely troubling. While I was there, there were demonstrations by the drivers of emergency taxis, who were setting off cherry bombs and rockets in the streets. Very distressing!
It now appears to be c'est la vie in Paris now. I have a French friend living on outskirts of city centre and she says it has become so common now to protest and riot over issues. I wonder if some of it is in the French DNA. But I hate to see such wanton destruction. We had a bad experience of it in Dublin not so long ago. There is a distinct underbelly operating within these protest systems unfortunately
I don't think violence is really in anyone's DNA more than anyone else's. I imagine that someone more knowledgeable than I could explain the combination of factors that lead to the street violence in Paris. I imagine they would include a sense that things never change, feelings of exclusion, a desire to engage the media, and just general frustration. Plus, the more it happens, the more it becomes a "tradition". ☹️
For some reason, I always imagined Paris having dirty tap water that couldn't be drank. That's crazy that not only is it super clean, but you can even find public drinking fountains with soap!?
I was also very interested to learn about the garbage removal programs. The rumours I've heard about Paris were either wrong or passé!
This was such a fun way to explore the city, and so nice that you didn't include any of the typical Paris stuff. I'm inspired!
My husband and I were in Paris in February. We typically go once a year but on this trip (the first since the olympics), we found the Parisian over the top friendly! A real shift from previous visits where the stereotypical aloofness prevailed. Curious if you expect anything similar?
Yes, Stephanie, I actually did find the Parisians to be very friendly. I speak mediocre French but I was with a friend who speaks very well, and we were showered with compliments everywhere we went. Once people understood that we spoke the language, they were very keen to talk to us—even the waiters!
That was refreshing to see when I went! Not only did people read books but people were talking to each other in cafes and restaurants! At home, people shush each other in cafes because they are working on their laptops. It really did feel like the 90's in that way!
Thank you for this interesting and funny essay. Love the Urban Chicken's... :-))). I never fell in love with Paris, nor did I become a frankophile, which is kind of strange really, as I used to speak French really well. I still love the language, but I got stuck in Central Europe voilà. Heading to Prague now for a family wedding. I shall see whether the signs in English are any better over there!
Ohh, I went to Paris with my daughter three weeks ago and now your photo essay make me want to return ASAP!
We stayed in the 11th arr. and took the metro from a different station almost every day. And at least one of the streets to the metro had a mosque and from all the shops you could see hijabs, long clothing etc. Sounds really daft but I can't explain it in a better way. Felt kind of nice anyhow.
I'm glad you and your daughter had a good time there, Carina! It's a wonderfully cosmopolitan place. Really different from any city in Norden, I would say. Don't you think?
Paris is sort of my first love when it comes to cities. And the cosmopolitan air is why I love it so much. Norden is blah in comparison 😁
I meant the tendency to protest moreso. From the French revolution to the yellow shirts 😃
"avec la complicité active du gouvernement de Vichy".
It's OK to own this. That's what grown-up governments do.
Rome has a lot of public water fountains and spigots.
Interesting that France would put up with all the creeping anglicization. Quebec certainly doesn't. KFC is KFC in Paris and PFK--Poulet Frit (a la) Kentucky--in Montreal.
Then again, we in the USA think that using French words makes things more classy. "Pardon me, would you have any Grey Poupon?"
Yeah, too bad "grey" isn't a French word. 😂 I'm sure "poupon" is, but I don't know what it means!
My wife and I have been living in the 6eme , at the edge of the 14eme, for the last two months and have noticed all of the same things except for the racial segregation. Our street (Blvd. Raspail) is one of the places taxi drivers congregate for their strike actions - I was narrowly missed by an egg thrown at a scab one day. Not sure about the segregation - we have walked in all 20 arrondisements while we have been here, but only two suburbs (Saint-Denis and Meudon) and have not had that feeling. For what it's worth, we live in an integrated multi-ethnic (anglo/black/Hispanic/Asian) neighborhood back home in the US, which feels rare there. The thing about similar businesses congregating is so true- we've seen it for shoe stores, for Japanese restaurants, and so on.
I'm glad you've made many of the same observations. If you want to check out the segregation thing, take metro line 4 to Château Rouge and go for a walk. Maybe this part of town is indeed special.
I'm glad you didn't get hit by the egg. The civil unrest aspect of Paris is definitely not one of the more pleasant ones, is it?
I may do that. We live right at the Vavin stop on the #4 Metro line. Only 17 stops away! And since I didn't say so before, thanks for a fascinating and thoughtful article.
Thanks very much!
One more comment, regarding water fountains: my wife and I were pleasantly astonished one day, filling a water bottle from a public fountain, to discover it dispensed (only) carbonated water! Later research taught us that Paris has 17 such public fountains, as well as over a hundred Wallace fountains, named after the wealthy British expat who paid for the first 70 after the Paris Commune, which he lived through, For art fans, the same Wallace who donated the Wallace Collection in London.
Oh yes, I actually forgot to mention the carbonated fountains! Thank you for filling that in. I didn't know the history of the Wallace fountains. Thanks for educating us!
Lovely and insightful- thanks for sharing
Thank you, Steph. 😊
I was just in Paris in the 4th arrondissement. Those references to the Shoah and the innocent lives lost were abundant, especially in this predominately orthodox Jewish neighborhood. It is a necessary reminder of knowing history and eternal vigilance. On a lighter note, really enjoyed the street art that I’m so drawn to and love to interact with these really evocative pieces. I didn’t notice the street garbage you experienced.
I'm glad that some of these things resonated with you, Maria. I hope you enjoyed your time in Paris.
It was wonderful.
Ah, the joy of being in a European city on the night their team plays--you always do know when a goal gets scored...
Also, fun fact about some of those paste-ups that I learned last time I was in Paris: some of them are part of an app game, you walk around the city and collect them. My tour guide paused and took pictures of them once or twice as we were walking, for her kids who love to play. :) It was pretty sweet, and it's a great way to get people to engage in a new way with the city around them.
Thanks for sharing that, Rebecca; I didn't know about the app game, though it makes perfect sense. And it's slightly more dignified than Pokemon Go.
Really enjoyed this tour of La Paris Quotidienne — the photos and your commentary. So much to love about the city. Thanks for including a photo of one of my favorite parks - the Place des Vosges. Once, my husband, 14 yo son, and I were sitting at a table under the arcade and a woman was singing opera nearby while her friend recorded her on his phone. That same trip, we discovered the best place to ride out a 95-degree heat wave is the crypt under Soufflot’s Pantheon.
I'm glad you enjoyed it, Julie! Some say that the Place des Vosges is the oldest park in Paris, but I don't know if that's really true. It certainly is spectacular, with the combination of trees, grass, and arcades.
I will keep the Pantheon crypt in mind next time I'm in Paris during a heat wave. I just hope not to stay there permanently!
It is! It was the first planned square in the city, built by Henry IV from 1605 to 1612. The facades were all built to create the square and developers filled in buildings behind them.
How cool!
Great review Gregory. I just love Paris. I was there in September again It's a city I feel comfortable navigating on my own now. And some of your observations ring so true: the parks are numerous and lovely, book reading in public is common. I have noticed memorial plaques on walls but I wonder do children notice them much. I did notice the rubbish and dirt on streets, and homeless people sleeping rough. Did you encounter the riots that took place after the match? It's so upsetting to see this level of destruction, a more common occurrence unfortunately.
You're right, Lucy, there is a lot of senseless violence in Paris, especially when something exciting happens—either positive or negative! I find the habit of burning parked cars, for example, extremely troubling. While I was there, there were demonstrations by the drivers of emergency taxis, who were setting off cherry bombs and rockets in the streets. Very distressing!
It now appears to be c'est la vie in Paris now. I have a French friend living on outskirts of city centre and she says it has become so common now to protest and riot over issues. I wonder if some of it is in the French DNA. But I hate to see such wanton destruction. We had a bad experience of it in Dublin not so long ago. There is a distinct underbelly operating within these protest systems unfortunately
I don't think violence is really in anyone's DNA more than anyone else's. I imagine that someone more knowledgeable than I could explain the combination of factors that lead to the street violence in Paris. I imagine they would include a sense that things never change, feelings of exclusion, a desire to engage the media, and just general frustration. Plus, the more it happens, the more it becomes a "tradition". ☹️
For some reason, I always imagined Paris having dirty tap water that couldn't be drank. That's crazy that not only is it super clean, but you can even find public drinking fountains with soap!?
I was also very interested to learn about the garbage removal programs. The rumours I've heard about Paris were either wrong or passé!
This was such a fun way to explore the city, and so nice that you didn't include any of the typical Paris stuff. I'm inspired!
Well, if I've inspired you, Kaila, then I've done a good job. Thanks!
I miss Paris a lot - a city that I once knew quite well, but not anymore. thanks for keeping us up to date.
I hope you get to return sometime soon, Renata!
Lovely post!
Merci, Rachel! I wish I could have included a photo of the smell of freshly baked croissants that nearly brought tears to my eyes!
My husband and I were in Paris in February. We typically go once a year but on this trip (the first since the olympics), we found the Parisian over the top friendly! A real shift from previous visits where the stereotypical aloofness prevailed. Curious if you expect anything similar?
Yes, Stephanie, I actually did find the Parisians to be very friendly. I speak mediocre French but I was with a friend who speaks very well, and we were showered with compliments everywhere we went. Once people understood that we spoke the language, they were very keen to talk to us—even the waiters!
We’ve experienced this as well. We’ve been going once or twice year for the last 20 years.
Actual books! Made of paper! How 90’s of them! 😊
That was refreshing to see when I went! Not only did people read books but people were talking to each other in cafes and restaurants! At home, people shush each other in cafes because they are working on their laptops. It really did feel like the 90's in that way!
were they listening to pearl jam and wearing flannels too? ;) seriously though, that sounds very refreshing.
Yeah, and they were like sending faxes and stuff, too!